Showing posts with label reconstruction. Show all posts
Showing posts with label reconstruction. Show all posts

Monday, April 9, 2012

#46 "Shirt" Skirt

This is a recon of 3 men's shirts into a high waist-ed circle skirt. I left the seams exposed for a deconstructed look and then added a pop of color around the hem with appliqued yarn strands.

This project took about 4 hours including figure out how to do put it together.

Monday, January 4, 2010

Ruffled Sweater shrug

 I was inspired to do my own version after seeing this tutorial at Threadbanger:


But I wanted one that would work for a girl with my abundant proportions as well as offer a bit more coverage.

Action Pic's to come soon. I swear. Oh, and unless I make another one I am not counting this as part of the Project a Day dealy.

You will need:
  • One 100% wool man's sweater (not a bulky knit and the sweater should fit you but not be tight or droop off your shoulder's)
  • scissors
  • Chalk
  • pins
  • sewing machine
  • matching thread
Step 1
With the sweater on right side out mark down from the center front, under your boobs and too the small of your back or where you want the garment to end in the back.



Step 2

Take the sweater off and crease it so it is folded in half center and back. Now even up the marks you made.
Carefully cut on the marks you made. Cut the bottom edge first. then cut up the front... ONLY CUT ONE LAYER when you cut up the front.





Step 3
Now try it on. It if is too baggy in the body pinch in the side seams. It it is too back in the back make darts from the bottom edge.




Step 4
Measure out all around the edge (but don't stretch it out). Take this number and multipy it by two. This is the minimum length the strip will work for ruffles to be. Take the left over bits of sweater and make a strip this long as wide as desired or possible. I don't use the ribbing a the bottom of the sweater unless I absolutely have to and if I do I put them in equal bits at the end of my long strip.

Step 5
Applying the ruffle. Now keep in mind the idea behind this bit is to get an even presentation down the center of the front. So start at the collar and take your long strip of sweater bits work your way around the collar pinning the ruffles. Switch from side to side as you do this so you end with an even-ish look and so you have enough to go all the way around the sweater edge ending in the middle back.

Step 6
Once you have your ruffle VERY securely pinned down and looking just so use a zigg zagg stich on your machine to sew the ruffle on. Stretch out the sweater just a little bit as you sew to get a better curly edge look flowing into the pinned ruffles. Make sure you catch both edges of the sweater well when you sew. Sew this seam again if you need to to keep it secure.


Optional. You can go around the edge of your ruffle with a zig zag stitch to stop it from unraveling over time... I don't because I like that frayed deconstructed look.

Tuesday, December 29, 2009

#365 Sleeveless Wrap Shirt - Getting a jump on 2010

UPDATE: This is what I ended up with ;) Action pic's coming soon.
Modifications to the method are in red


  

This is what I am trying for:


I started with a long sleeve t-shirt (xxl) from target $6
I used tailor chalk
Pins
Sewing machine
Thread
(and possibly other t-shirt scraps)


Step 1 - Mark out your shirt
If you don't have a body dummy you will need a friend for this part.
Put the shirt on inside out.
Mark where the shoulders end
Next along the sides, pin down from the desired arm pit to where you want your to to end. Be careful to pin equally on each side. I like my shirts fitted but not tight so I was careful to not pull on the shir and left a bit of ease. Follow the pin lines with the caulk to roughly mark out the new fit of your shirt... do this on both the front and back!

With the tailors chalk (and pins if you like)mark out where the shirt will end in the center front and back.

Mark under the bust line (being careful to press the shirt up under a larger bust to represent where you actually wear the shirt). Mark this line center and sides... this is so you know where to put the wrappy bits.

Also mark on the sides where you want the wrappy bits to end... thinner and by the bust you end up with an empire waist effect. Thicker and more down you end up with a textured tunic feel (what I am going for).

Step 2 - Cut it up

With the shirt layed out as flat as possible clean up the chalk marks on both sides of shirt.. try to true them up as much as possible. You can do this before or after you cut off the sleeves.
Cut off the sleeves.

If you are going to finish the open edges of the bottom and arm holes cut them off a half  or a quarter of an inch over your marks.

Cut off the excess at the bottom.
Instead of cutting it off I left it and it gave me a great slimming paneled feel of an asian tunic... Though I had to rip out stitches at the end. Next time just mark the drop off point. That is the widest point of your hip or the apex of your hip curve.... is is were the side seams will end.

Next cut up the sides leaving half an inch for seam allowance.





Step 3 - Make the wrappy strip bits

Next do a bit of planning. Us the math from where you marked out your top in step 1. Lay open the sleeves and cut them as show. See the notes on the little drawings.

In the end I ended cutting each sleeve in three bits that ended up as tappered trapaziods like the illustration and sewed them together. I used french seams because I don't have a serger (yet!) but I wouldn't do that again as it was really to bulky for this kind of knit.







Then sew the bits of sleeves together till you have a strip that will go from one side of your body across the front and to the back with enough ease to tie comfortable. Add scraps of other t-shirt fabric as needed.













Step 4 - Put it together

This is a good time to check fit. Throw it over your head and make sure everything is landing correctly and that you have arm holes you like. Mark any fit corrections with chalk and pins.


Fold open the shirt at the shoulder seams. Place the wrappy strips to the edge of the front of the shirt... Wrong side to good side!!! Gather the wrappy bit as needed to fit in the desired amount of torso. This will vary by person but the goal is not to make your gut look giant and to make your girls  (no mater what size they are) look great yet modest.


Sew the wrappy bits down to the front of the shirt slightly inside the desired finishe seam edge.


Step 5 - No, Really putting it all together and finishing it
Fold the wrappy strips in (pinning if you need to) so they don't get caught when you sew the side seams.

Fold the shirt back together at the shoulder seams right sides together. Pin and sew the sides. Be Careful and don't sew all the way down to the bottom of the shirt like I did otherwise you will have to rip out the seams which is a huge drag with black on black and knit material. Huge.

I finished the sides and arms by folding over the fabric the same amount as the side seams folded in and going over them with a smallish zig zag stitch. I triple stitched the sides seams at the top so they wouldn't rip around my generous hip/bum.

At this point I haven't finished the neckline but that is cause I am not sure what I am gonna do with it. Need something but I don't want to kill the simple clean lines of the shirt.

Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Giant Man's Shirt to Cute Dress

Before: Big Box of a man's shirt with cool blue retro workman's stripes. I only wish I had a blue "bob" batch for the final project.


After: Cute Dress

Materials

  • 1 large mans shirt (really big is better) Try it on and it should be summer length on you and have enough ease on in the body for you to sit down without stressing the buttons. I used a 5x man's shirt I got from the thrift store for $2.
  • 1 Spool of ribbon or bias tape Enough to go around you and tie in the back with ease
  • Scissors
  • Sewing machine (unless you want to so this by hand)
  • Pins
  • Calk or other marking tool
  • Thread to go with shirt/ribbon
  • Measuring tape
  • Quilter's ruler
Step one - Try on the shirt and pin to mark the following places:
  • Where your shoulder lands
  • Center of boobs
  • Under boobs (Move the material close up under your boobs so that you accomodate your girly curves
  • Your wides point (usually your hips)
  • Pin along the sides until the excess fabric is taken up and you have added shape. Don't go super tight here as you will need some of this fabric for the fitting darts back and front later. And you want t be able to move.

Step two - Mark and cut

  • Cut of the sleeves leaving the seamed bit with the sleeve you cut off
  • Button up the shirt and lay it out as flat as possible (iron if needed) and fold in half with buttons on the outside.
  • Redraw the arm holes up to the pin make you made for your shoulder. Take some of the curve out of them. Cut out your drawing leaving a .5 in seam allowance.
  • Redraw the side seams along the pin marks you made. Cut and pin leaving a .5 inch seam allowance.
  • Cut open the sleeves (removing any surged edges) and lay the material flat. Place good sides together and fold in half along the top of the shoulder seam.
  • Lay along this folded bit down next to the shoulder line of the shirt. You are gonna make a quarter circle shaped sleeve here. Draw a curved line from the bottom of the armpit to the shoulder edge and cut out. Leave a little bit of seam allowance for a rolled edge finish on the sleeve.
  • Attach the sleeve to the shirt. There is a great tutorial on how to do that at http://www.whatthecraft.com

Step Three.
  • Sew up the sides and try it on. Check out the fit. It should be still sorta baggy cause you haven't added darts or gathers.
  • Mark a line with chalk under the boob where you pinned before.
  • With the shirt on, and some pins pin a small area of gathers under each boob to give yourself some curve. It doesn't have to be super tight cause you are gonna be able to tie it and you will be adding darts in the back.

Step four -

  • Take it off and add but darts to the back. You can use a tape measure and feel along your back to find out the area in the middle of your back... what you are trying to to is measure an area in the middle of your back where each end is roughly over the center of each bum cheak. You can also use a fitted skirt to match up dart location.
  • Use a ruler and even out and make darts on the inside back of the shirt. I am not going to explain how to make darts cause there are way better tutorials out in the interwebs.
  • Next take out your ruler and under boob trim.... Mark out and pin the ties on the front of the shirt... use your ruler to pin the gathered area evenly on both sides. You will pin the ties from the button line to the side seam of the shirt.
  • Before you sew either th darts or the ties, try it back on inside out and adjust sides, darts and ties as needed for a comfy fit... sit down!!!!! other wise you may end up too tight. Don't pin yourself.

Step Five - Sew it all down... darts and ties.
Ad any other embellishment you would like... and done!